Never enough time in Beijing

Last time I was in Beijing I stayed for two weeks, and I vowed to return because two weeks was not enough to do everything I had wanted. My plan this summer was to do and see everything in Beijing over the course of three months. Of course it’s impossible. But that’s what makes Beijing so awesome. I love cities, and I have been to a lot of them, and nothing compares to Beijing in my book. You can never run out of stuff to do, places to eat, streets to wander, and people to meet. Plus, you’re in China! And for a foreigner in China, the fascination with your surroundings never really goes away.

Beijing nights are forever

While I may not have done everything I wanted to do in this enormous city, I have gotten a pretty good feel for daily life as a local, from the always-unpredictable transportation situation to the countless snack, drink, and meal options at all hours of the day. I’ve gotten to know Beijing through the eyes of locals – Chinese friends both old and new – and through fellow foreign students trying to make sense of this place (and our inexplicable obsession with it). Put those two groups together, and my summer has been insanely busy. Busy with what? That’s where my list comes in. This is not a list for tourists looking for sites or top attractions; this is just my favorite things to do in Beijing. For me, this list is Beijing.

Top things to do in Beijing

1. Karaoke: I start with this one because it is the most classically Asian. Across east Asia you will find countless karaoke bars, ranging from dingy and cheesy to luxurious and expensive. In China, karaoke bars are called KTV, which makes them pretty easy to identify for illiterate Chinese speakers like me. You can find KTV in every neighborhood, but some chains especially from Hong Kong and Taiwan attract the big crowds. At the top joints, you can rent a huge party room complete with bottle service, dinner buffet, and a selection of today’s most popular songs. I have always been a big fan of karaoke, but attending many KTV parties with friends and classmates has brought it to a new level. One of my favorite parts of the night is when they first turn on the TV for you and a video plays telling you (in Chinese) not to do drugs, not to gamble, and not to have sex in the room. No problem, guys! I really wish I could open a place like this in the United States, but I think Americans are just too self-conscious to belt out Beyonce in front of a group of 12 people. Chinese people, on the other hand, have a lot of fun with it, and often they are really great singers. I am still trying to figure that one out.

most low-budget KTV in the world in Taole, Ningxia, China

2. Mountains: After zipping around Beijing for a while, the flat landscape can start to feel a bit monotonous. The city has no natural sites, no natural hills, rivers, or lakes to mark any type of boundary or center. But venture outside of Beijing and you will see what a lot of China offers: mountains! Beijing is surrounded by huge, gorgeous mountains, and that’s where you will go if you climb the great wall. There are also plenty of chances to go to the mountains to visit temples, go river rafting, or hang out in a Chinese forest resort. The mountains are a cool getaway in the hot summer and a breath of fresh air when the city smog gets to your head. Plus, in order to get to the mountains you have to take a local bus or hire a driver, both of which involve inevitable adventure.

these mountains are for real

3. Eat serious food: Growing up, I never realized that there was Chinese food beyond egg rolls and stir fry. When I first came to China, I was completely confused and overwhelmed by the selection, diversity, and freshness. Sure, some Chinese food is fried and oily, but there are so many options here that you can easily avoid that. First, a note about Chinese people and food: People here eat everything, all the time, everywhere. One thing that I am going to miss terribly about living in Asia is the tiny chairs and tables sitting on sidewalks outside food establishments. Sometimes the customers are just chomping on hard-boiled eggs, other times they are picking away at a giant fried fish, and a lot of the time they are scooping up rice and veggies with their chopsticks like total pros. If you are not scared to try new things, you will never go hungry in Beijing. There is not an hour of the day where men are not standing outside grilling meat on a stick (chuanr) ready to sell it to you for 10 cents each. There are teas, breads, yogurts, pancakes, sausages, fruits, candies, and noodles fresh and ready. And what’s better, it’s cheap, too! Sure, you can find plenty of fancy restaurants here that will serve $20 entres. But generally I pay between $1-2 for a meal of generous portions. Clearly I need to write an entire post exclusively about food. Basically, if you like to eat, come to China.

meat dish with crazy fish made of...mango? undetermined.

4. Shop the spectrum: Last year my visit to China was in the middle of a larger world trip, so I had no room in my traveling backpack for new purchases. This time I came more prepared with extra space in my suitcase! Chinese clothes just work for me. The one-size-fits-all is actually my size. The style is a little crazy, a little girly, and never boring. Many Chinese friends have commented to me that American clothes seem very “simple.” China doesn’t do simple. Sure, some of the clothes you will see here will make you gag, but if you have a good eye and enough patience you will find gems. There are a gazillion markets in this city. Most tourists go to the Silk and Pearl Markets, which are fine, but I have no desire to ever go back to those places unless I specifically want to buy pearls. The best markets here are the ones where no one speaks English and 99.9% of the customers are locals. At these markets, I have found 50 cent shirts, $1 shorts, and $2 shoes. Yes, I have worn them and washed them and they are still in tact. If cheap is not your style, Beijing does upscale very well, too. Asian malls are always a kick, so even though I am not going to pay western prices for anything here, I find myself wandering malls for the experience. And it’s not just clothes. Chopsticks, stationary, sculpture, tea sets, paintings, you name it. Beijing wants to sell it to you.

5. Get lost in the crowd: This is important advice for any new place. Don’t make a plan, don’t kid yourself that you can stick to the plan, just walk. Get lost, follow the crowd, and don’t think about it. I think this advice works especially well in Beijing. This city is so safe that you cannot wander anywhere that you will regret. There are so many people here that you will rarely be alone on any street or alley. Predicting arrival and departure times in Beijing is close to impossible, so you may as well not stress yourself out and just say you will get there when you get there. People are pretty pushy here, but at the same time they appear patient. I have never heard a Chinese person complain about a long line or wait time; whining is useless. This is really cliché, but the best things I have found in Beijing have been by accident. If there are lots of locals surrounding something, go there. If there are lots of locals eating something, eat it. Beijing is full of pedestrians and cyclists. This city is moving at all hours of the day. So just go with it!

I live in Beijing

I have an alien resident form to prove it. For the next 10 weeks I will attempt to understand what it is I love so much about this country, this city, and this language. I need to figure it out for my own peace of mind, but I also would like to have a more elegant explanation when people ask me “Why do you love China so much?” Right now my number one reason is “It’s awesome” which just doesn’t capture much.

Temple of Heaven (being in a photo here is always a shared activity)

I live in Xizhimen on the west end of Beijing. The west end is known for being more local; there are not many foreigners living here and many old buildings have been preserved compared to the high-rises that have taken over the east side. The east side is also full of embassies, which means foreign bars and restaurants are nearby. Which also means inflated prices. So in my lovely neighborhood, I can stroll around my streets and find street food for 25 cents and sit-down dinners for $1.50. I can buy fruit from a lady with a cart or I can buy dresses in the trendy little shops on the main road. I love my neighborhood. I also live on the newest subway line 4. Most of Beijing’s subway is ultra modern and sleek, but I feel super cool that my station is only a few months old.

my subway stop on Line 4

My apartment complex makes me really happy as well. When I first arrived, I was freaked out that I wouldn’t be able to find which building was mine or which door led to my apartment. I live in a complex of buildings that all look the same: ten floors, orangy-pinkish, gritty exteriors. To tell someone where I live, I have to say building 30 and entrance 2. That gives you an idea of how many buildings there are! Every group of buildings surrounds a parking lot, and every parking lot surrounds a small plot of grass and tress. I call these the garden courtyards, but of course that is a generous term. But what makes them so lovely is how much the neighbors enjoy them. Every night I open my window to listen to the people chatting (listening is a crucial step in language learning…I am not being a creeper) and the kids running around the trees. Most everyone has a small dog, similar to Marshall’s size, so I snoop on them as well. Many people keep plants and patio furniture outside their entrance doors so they can enjoy the summer nights together. Even though my community has thousands and thousands of members, I feel cozy and at home.

home sweet home!

I go to school nearby at a subway stop called Guloudajie. It would be about a 15 minute bike ride or a 40 minute walk. I may walk if I get my act together by 7:30am! My school is in a Hutong, so that’s why it’s called the Hutong School. The school gives English lessons for Chinese people, Chinese lessons for foreigners, and internship and housing support. So I go there for class every morning, then I go to my internship that they found for me. They have been really amazing so far. They have helped me with absolutely everything, from visas to phones to internet to banking. I have a small class with a cute and energetic teacher. The school may be small, but I think it does amazing work. And it is MUCH cheaper than going to an actual university!

Hutong School friends playing soccer on Wanfujing Street

I have three roommates from three different continents: Gabi from Slovakia, Shirley from Canada, and Christine from South Korea. They have all been here around two or three months, so they helped me get acquainted with the area, and they are good enough at Chinese to order our supply of drinking water every week. Two of them are just doing intensive language at the Hutong School, while one other is doing the internship program like me, where we do language plus interning. Each of them are really dedicated to learning Chinese, and they really enjoy it here. That’s a huge relief to me, because the roommates can make or break your experience; a whiny roomie can really bring you down! A happy home is the first step of me loving Beijing.

Birthday cake in Nanjing

China is not only huge, and it not only has huge cities that we’ve heard of like Beijing and Shanghai, but it also has dozens of big cities that most of us have not heard of with populations in the millions.  Nanjing is one of those cities.  The capital of Jiangsu Province, Nanjing used to be the capital of China. It also happens to be the sister city of St. Louis; the two cities were the first pair of sister cities between the US and China!  I knew I loved Nanjing for a reason.  It is a very modern city with a great subway system, many universities, and great shopping and restaurants.  It is also surrounded by natural beauty and holds many cultural sites since it was once the national capital.

Nanjing lit up at night along the canal by the Fuzi Temple

We stayed in a super cute hostel (nearly every hostel in China is super cute and clean and fun) right by the Fuzi Temple, a Confucian temple, so we went there at night to see it all lit up.  We’ve learned very quickly that the Chinese love to light things up, including religious sites.  I took a billion pictures at Fuzi, but I had to restrict myself for this blog post.

The Fuzi Temple was filled with light-up displays, which I think were made of silk

We’ve found that lots of the cultural sites in China are extremely expensive, so we’ve really had to pick and choose what is important to us.  In Nanjing, I really wanted to visit the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Museum, which taught us all about the Japanese massacre of the citizens of Nanjing in 1937.  Within about three months, 300,000 people were slaughtered and about 80,000 women and girls were raped by Japanese soldiers.  I remembered learning about this in high school, so it was really amazing to be in the city where it happened, and to think about how recent it was that the city was in shambles.  The museum was huge and covered basically everything about the (uncomfortable) relationship between China and Japan.  We learned a lot about China’s status during WWII, which is not something we are taught about in the US.  The coverage of the massacre was extremely moving, and I could see that some of the Chinese visitors were very emotional while viewing it.

part of the memorial complex at the Nanjing Massacre Museum

The other important site we chose in Nanjing was the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, mostly because I was hoping to see another embalmed Asian leader.  Unfortunately, he is held in a tomb and we could not see his body.  But the site and the surroundings were beautiful, and we counted every single one of the 392 steps up to his tomb.  Sun Yat-sen is considered the father of modern China, but the mausoleum didn’t teach us much more than that, because it assumes all the visitors are Chinese and already know why he is important.  But basically he was the first political leader after the dynasties were done ruling China.  He died in Beijing in 1925 but wanted to be buried in Nanjing to have a more simple tomb.  Too bad!

climbing the 392 steps up to Dr. Sun's tomb

And one more thing happened in Nanjing…my birthday!  It was really cool having my birthday in China, mostly because I’m on vacation, and that’s the best way to spend a birthday.  But also I got to help myself to the greatest baked goods in the world.  I never knew this about China, but there are bakeries on every corner and everything they make is delectable. I picked out a chocolate sponge cake with creme swirl and green tea cookies and had a mini party with…Jon.  There really are so few people who understand English in China, I couldn’t create a birthday party for myself without knowing a bit more Manderin.  So to make up for the lack of a party, I went out and bought myself a pink coat for $8.  We had a yummy Chinese dinner at a place with an English menu (a rarity) and hung out in the hostel despite the showing of “Twilight” in the background.

my 24th birthday: cheap Chinese beer, sponge cake, a new pink coat, and the satisfaction of fulfilling my 23-year-old resolution to take more risks (aka go on this trip)

Chiang Mai charms my socks off

Well, not my socks really.  More like my shoes, because I’m taking them off ten times a day to walk into the billion temples we’ve gone to.  (See, I can still be cheesy far away from home.)  I will write more about Chiang Mai and post more pictures later, but for now here’s the main feeling: LOVE!  This was the perfect place to start our trip.  Here, you’re allowed to be a tourist.  It really helps us get comfortable in Asia.  Thais come up and talk to us just to find out where we are from and to give us advice on where to go in Chiang Mai.  They seem genuinely happy that we are visiting their city.

Outside one of the many temples (wats) that we stumble upon in Chiang Mai

The funny thing is, we have run into some of the same Thai people twice.  I guess the city is small compared to places I’ve lived, but running into the same dudes, and them recognizing us, is crazy to me!  The funniest dude is a teacher at a school near our guesthouse.  After I was interviewed by a high school girl for her English class, he came up to tell us where to buy silk (I guess we look like people who want silk?).  After circling a lot of things on our map, he told us all about this flower festival.  We hadn’t heard about any festival, so we just smiled and said thanks.  As we left he shouted out to us: “Flower festival tomorrow!”

The next day, we were walking around the giant Buddhist university, and we see teacher man again.  This time, he tells us to come watch his boy scouts (?!), and when we politely said no thanks, he shouted: “Flower festival tomorrow!”  For the rest of the day, other Thais told us about this flower festival.  So we looked it up in the guide book, and turns out we are here in Chiang Mai for one of their biggest festivals of the year!  Maybe that’s why all the guesthouses filled up this weekend.

Chiang Mai is known as the city of temples

So today we finally got to see this flower festival.  Seriously, what a treat.  There are a bunch of contests for flower clubs and enthusiasts.  Like, serious flowers.  Orchids galore.  You can buy some flowers, but most of them are like showdogs.  They win ribbons.  Although I only saw first and second place… Anyway, they also have a Miss Flower pageant.  And tons of food and stalls selling the usual cheap clothes, jewelry and knick nacks.  But the best part was people watching.  For a long time we sat on top of the wall to the old city just watching the people stroll through the festival.  Back in the day of war (haha) the people in Chiang Mai built the wall to keep out the scary Burmese.  The wall still stands, mostly, but is crumbling in some areas.  We found a dog print in one of the bricks of the wall.  A midieval dog!?

Tomorrow night we leave Chiang Mai for a city in the northeast region of Thailand called Nong Khai. I could hang out here so much longer…

Part of the wall of the old city. The Thai flag is the striped one, and we think the yellow flag is for Chiang Mai.

Korea and Karma

My only real fear about this entire trip is my stomach.  I am a big wimp when it comes to spicy food, greasy food, and life without my daily Greek yogurt.  But I have to suck it up!  It turns out I didn’t even need to be in Asia yet to have issues with my stomach.  As soon as we got on our Korean Air flight from Los Angeles to Seoul, Jon reaches into his seat pocket and says “I may start collecting these barf bags. I’ve never seen anyone actually use them.” Uh oh.

A few hours later, his lovely girlfriend was puking into one of his collctors items.  I have no idea why.  I have never been motion sick or air sick.  I didn’t eat anything weird.  I’ll blame the turbulence, or maybe just karma.  Jon isn’t allowed to say anymore “I’ve never…” statements for the next four months.  After we got over the trauma of the 12-hour flight, we woke up to Tuesday in Korea.  That’s right; we totally skipped Monday.  Time is blowing my mind!  We spent from about 8am to 3pm in Seoul, just wandering around the city in a daze.

Entrance to Namdaemun market, which had raw seafood and silk slippers within steps of each other

It was a calm and quiet city compared to what I imagine the other Asian cities we will visit will be like.  The Metro was fantastic and really easy to use.  Whenever I go back to Korea for a real visit of the country, I will make sure to bring a bunch of empty suitcases, because the shopping there is phenomenal.  It’s cheap, it’s cute, and it’s all my size!  Everything was pretty cheap actually.  My udon lunch was only $2.50.

Colorful streets of Seoul

Seoul apparently isn’t sure when Christmas is.  We took our picture next to a big Christmas tree in the university area, and we posed with snowmen and polar bears at the airport.  There were lights and ornaments all over the airport…in February.  At least it was cheery!  In Seoul we went to a palace and a market, and that was really all we had the energy for.  Someday I’ll come back and really do Korea.  But I’m really glad we decided to do the long layover to actually see something.  It gave us a nice break and a bit more time to get over the jet lag…

Inside the grounds of Deoksugung Palace (originally built in late 1400s)

Guards in front of palace who marched around to the drums at 11am

The time change in Korea brought us back to Christmas?